No.2340
>>2338Is that a meny success on that oxidizing or nah? How's everything else, get da machine?
No.2341
>>2340seems to go well
i just finished redoing my water supply piping, finally got the drywall back up textured and painted, and mounted an electrical subpanel so i can rewire stuff later
now its ripping up the carpet, all the fucking carpet glue, and then grinding the floors flat and sealing them before i put the machine base in place
No.2342
>>2341>grind floors flatUsing those grinders is a real pain in the dick and if your floor isnt level it will take for ever to grind away at it like that. Id suggest scrapping the piss outta them, then hitting it hard with a buffer and a real coarse screen.
t. did them floors before
No.2343
>>2342ya i member your floors
my floor has a joint that runs through the middle of it, and the slab on either side is cocked up a bit so its a high point
theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue too. shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor and its insanely hard to scrape off
i might try dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the side
No.2344
>>2343>dissolving most of it with acetone and scraping it to the sideThat will create exactly the mess you think it will. Mek might work better.
>shits 3/16" thick at some points, they basically used it to level the floor No surprise there. These fucks never think of the next guy who has to come through. Total hacks did that, I'll bet they got paid by the gallon too
No.2345
>>2344im gonna borrow a friends vibratory dremel and try a scraping blade first
No.2353
yeaa ended up using a diamond grinder on an angle grinder.
i'll be done in about 4 hours, with maybe another couple using an orbital to smooth out any parts with rough aggragate
No.2354
>>2343>theres a fucking shit ton of carpet glue tooman i had to get rid of a small patch of that shit in my house when i tore the carpet up im sorry you have to deal with more of it that was easily one of the more aggravating experiences ive had fixing this shitheap up
No.2357
>>2353>orbitalYeah that's a key part before you seal it. Doesn't sound like as big a pain in the dick as it could have been. Post pix pls
No.2358
>>2354>>2357angle grinder is doing fucking work
definitely teh way to go
its a little scary because its really aggressive but just going methodically and calmly… i'll be done in about 4 hours at this rate
if i started this way i'd be done twice over now
No.2359
i'll post some pictures this weekend
i also did electrical conduit for the outdoor lighting which was just ran with bare romex through the garage and redid the copper water supply piping from when the plumbers did a fix for a slab leak
also replaced all the shitty drywall they did and put in a sub panel, which i'll be fucking with later
my mains panel is a bit of a fire hazard so i'll be getting creative with my wiring to reuse all the existing wires but not exceed the stab rating of the fucking breakers like it is now
No.2363
when i have some time later i'll see if i can't get a photo dump of the other work so far
No.2364
>>2363Lookin forward to it. Good to see stuff to inspire me to do more projects around the house.
No.2365
>>2364ok i organized them into a folder on my phone but its like 75 photos, so gonna take me a while to move them over
No.2398
>>2394i'll excuse the foot pic
but may wanna delete that last one nice to get it in before the triple digits. be shittin in style soon
No.2403
>>2394nice frankenposts monster
No.2492
i'm still working on my stuff but its a nightmare, 1 of the 4 sections of my garage was poured with too much water by the house builders, so its very weak, spalls like crazy, and they had a bunch of wood chips mixed in with teh aggregate that rotted and left a fuck ton of voids
in short, i have a fucking ton of little repairs im doing and its holding me up
No.2495
>>2492why would there be wood chips mixed in i thought concrete pads were typically poured before any woodwork was done? idk shit about construction
No.2499
>>2495short answer, shitty builders
im sure the mix got contaminated. maybe a real windy day blowing debris from neighboring construction. maybe builder using a fucked up plank to mix, level, or otherwise work the concrete
anyway today i use some Sakcrete Top'N Bond
it's a polymer concrete mix that can be used for up to 2" down to skim coat
i mixed in some charcoal to make it dark **did too much tbh, shits almost black) and after chiselling all the cracks and cleaning i filled it in
shits kinda hard to work. after 3 hours i came back with the razor scraper to take off most the excess. next i'll use orbital sander with 80 grit to take it back down to base level
if the concrete wasn't so spalled it would look real clean with a dark fill like that (light fills always stand out like a sore thumb, pic rel. spalling is so bad it will probably look a bit dirty but i can live with that, as long as its nice and smooth
i'll probly do a second coat to cover that entire quarter of the slab. i still have other voids and other stuff to fill, and i might as well only do the sanding once.
No.2504
>>2499>might as well do the sanding onceYeah man that dust is a bitch once you get sanding. Imo that’s the best idea. Be sure to cover anything left in the garage with plastic or something really well to keep the dust off/out of everything. Lookin good so far keep plugging away
No.2505
>>2504i've actually grinded the entire garage down once already with diamond wheel and shopvac setup
like 4 or 5 entire shopvac fills of mastic/carpet adhesive, shit was nasty and even catch 99% of it it STILL got fookin everywhere
i did
>>2499 over the weekend but the top n bond has a bit of aggregate in it, so it didn't get any of the pinholes
i can slurry coat it and the polymer blend is actually so good that even with wayyyy too much water it still way fucking stronger than my current concrete even with only 12 hours of curing
No.2521
40% of my refinish sanded to 80 grit so far, can probably get it to 80% tomorrow
the surface was a lot less consistent than i thought, so the dark filler is wayy more prominent than i was expecting
not great but not terrible either. is buttery smooth, tho.
STILL can't get the pinholes, but i think i'm just going to leave it. only so much one can do, and i dont feel like purchasing a special slurry product
No.2540
80% sanded. i'll have 10-15% done tomorrow, then that last 5% is goin through and touching up areas i sanded too far, or didn't sand enough and evening it all out
No.2541
>>2521>pinholesYou talking in the conc? You can always get some conc sealer and run over it after you’re done. It’s better than leaving it exposed. You could always get mapai self leveling concrete and a gauge rake and over lay the floor.
that involves moving every thang outta there and maybe spending more $ than you’d like but it leaves a brand new surface No.2581
we've got autism in our board name so here's an autistic question
can anyone tell how tall OP is using the rifle as a height reference?
No.2582
>>2581You can tell OP's height using any reference point of a known height. Not sure why you'd care though.
No.2583
>>2581shorkcel is 6'3 in the dick alone
t. notshorkcel but yuge fan of his work
No.2684
>are you still here funguy?
yes.
>what's your regular workflow to build one of your guns?
depending on the design of the firearm and how much work you want to do? it can be really drastically different. but generally:
<buy a parts kit
<build the receiver
<fitting of parts, welding, metal working
<function tests. test firing
<disassembly, final touches, finishes etc
<photoshoot
>do you also make bullets?
no thats too autistic and menial even for my autism. having to do ammo runs out of state is worth it to me because when i just stack thousands at a time
>what can the avg spartman aspire to achieve with just a bunch of power tools and no +$1K expensive shit (lathe, milling machine)?
this, basically. actual picture of my setup, btw. that was my first build. it was almost all dremels, hand files, drill press, and welder.
there is ofc a shit ton of minutia. having experience makes it loads easier and helps in understanding wtf you even need to do. its not cheap, and it won't be fast, but i really enjoy it after i finish.
if you want to do one make a thread, i'll give you a decent amount of my time to walk you through it and talk out your choices. like i said, lots of minutia.
No.2691
>>2684>yesnice.
fags with actual hobbies are a rarity in imageboards, and always fun to read. unlike terminally online retards.
<buy a parts kitand what are you supposed to do in a no-fun shithole, where you can't just ship in your lego technic kit? what should you be able to create by yourself, other than a lead pipe taped to plywood?
i wasn't thinking of a semiauto rifle either. something simpler like a small .22 pistol would suffice, like in those pa luty books. at least as learning material, just for fun.
>thats too autistic and menial even for my autismand how do you do those? a mould you carve the shape of the bullet in, then melt some lead in? are cast bullets even an option for anything that's not a hunting rifle? t. fun illiterate
No.2692
>>2691sorry this is really long:
>what should you be able to create by yourselfanything your autism desires
pic is an upper receiver i made for an AR18 (but with machine tools)
i had to make machine/weld bending jigs, dies for the rib forming, machining the trunnion etc.
you can still make stuff with simple tools, but without extreme skill and time, you'd want to make much simpler things that are mainly 2 dimensions. single shot rifles, or on the more skilled end bolt action rifles. something like a Remington rolling block action (pic attached) would absolutely be feasible, and would still be practical firearm today for non-combatant use.
the barrel would be the hardest part. coincidentally, im designing a stepper driven barrel rifling machine during my lunch breaks, since i plan on manufacturing the barrel on my next rifle build.
there are people out there making barrels through electro-chemical means, and that would be the likely means you could accomplish that.
>a no-fun shitholedamn you must live in a REALLY no fun shithole if you cant even buy miscellaneous gun parts (for things like display etc). this is much harder but you can still make things. latin america? or dare i guess
librejp?
>and how do you do [reloading] … ?typically, you would have a variety of dies and gauges, case crimpers, and dedicated machines for consistently setting bullets etc
a typical workflow might be something like
>cleaning fired cartridges>resizing fired cartridges in sizing dies>replacing spent primers>measuring and placing gunpowder>placing projectiles and crimping case neck>double checking cartridge dimensionsor something like that. in a no-fun shithole like you're describing, 90% of this stuff is probably not even legally available.
a forray into firearms would probably entail going back to something resembling 1800s technology of early cartridges. the chemistry for primers and gunpowder would be the hardest part. modern 3d printing could also be an option for making cases, but what you can do with a consumer grade printer would be extremely limited. if you had access to high end commercial style SLS or MJF 3d printers you could make something closer to a modern cartridge
whatever you do, it would probably end up being a relatively low power wildcat cartridge. casting bullets in lead is absolutely an option if you're going that route. if you got very advanced, you could do copper electroplating combined with a swaging die for very high accuracy. a paper or linen wax cased needlefire style cartridge (pic attached) would be very feasible
No.2693
btw, what would make a cast lead bullet vs a copper jacketed bullet feasible is going mostly be the bullet velocity. copper jackets didn't really become a thing until high velocity spitzer shapes and smokeless powder became a thing at the turn of the century
for lower velocity stuff, polymer jackets are now a thing and might be feasible as a hobbyist thing
No.2710
>>2693>>2692>pic is an upper receiver i made for an AR18 (but with machine tools)and how much can be done w/o said machine tools? all those bends, grooves, dies; how much is it form over function and how much can you skip? every single book that makes anything decent looking always uses a lathe and a milling machine, and I doubt I can walk into the local metalworks shop to machine my gun parts.
never said anything about fullon rifle autism either. consider I was reading about the four winds philippino gun and shotguns that are nothing more than a pipe attached to plywood.
>you'd want to make much simpler things that are mainly 2 dimensionsyeh, but now that you've said it full-autism sounds vary cool
;_;
>you must live in a REALLY no fun shithole if you cant even buy miscellaneous gun partsare you telling me you're allowed to do fun shit in
the EU? how is buying a large sheet of metal that's clearly a rifle's receiver going to fly at customs? even springs and levers, they're first and foremost gun parts and the parts manufacturer will label them as such, right? no doubt that shit would warrant some scrutiny and the obvious question of "why yu bying this budy?".
>dedicated machines for consistently setting bulletssuch as?
>90% of this stuff is probably not even legally availableI see it. was reading some handgun ammo guide by and it states, instead of building a primer, to recycle primers from blank rounds; and iirc a blank gun itself is restricted by the JEU and needs a special permit and a serial number to go w. don't know about the rounds themselves though.
>polymer jackets are now a thinghow yu du thes budy?
No.2711
>>2710>even springs and leversnot sure bout
PU any more but look into wind chimes budy :^)
No.2716
>>2710>and how much can be done w/o said machine tools?i think you could do pic rel with mostly hand tools, wooden jigs, paper templates, and creativity.
i was going to post the aluminum heat shields i hand made but i think they got lost in the board wipe 😡
>are you telling me you're allowed to do fun shit in the EU?depends where exactly, but there were actually AR18 parts kits available for sail in europe. i couldn't buy because the restricted parts aren't the same– yuros tend to make pressure bearing components the illegal parts. bolts, barrels, that sorta thing, while the receivers are intact.
you could totally reactivate one of these, with the right know-how. the
https://mjlmilitaria.com/eu-deactivated-weapons/EU standard for firearm deactivation:
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32018R0337Now im pretty sure they do faggot shit– like track the fucking sale and possibly spot checks on deactivation. But if you had the right tools
a mill, a lathe, a dremel you could make new barrels, bolts, and undo all the gay shit they did.
to a certain extent, its less daunting. fabrication of the receiver is always a bitch because everything attaches to it. but making the pressure bearing components its always more technically difficult.
>dedicated machineshttps://www.opticsplanet.com/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-reloading-press-085001.htmlsomething like this. basically a dedicated press with all the right stuff specifically for bullets.
you can pay in $$$ or sweat and tears. 2nd pic is a 'fancy' one.
what i hate the most is that im pretty sure all these companies stuff is proprietary, and you'll pay ridiculous prices for dies and other parts and stuff
>how yu du thes budy?some kinda coating on the lead bullets. a forum i had read was a guy saying that powder coating is polymer based, so he just does that and it just 'werks'
No.2721
>>2716>AR18 parts kits<implying you can ship those through customsI read somewhere you can recycle parts for a gun from many places, lik springs from general hardware suppliers or car scraps. what else can you do? where's the place to look for to get creative?
>deactivated firearmsnah, the jEU has made sure those firearms are gay an stupid. if all pieces are maliciously welded and drilled and all pressure components are unserviceable what good are they? $1500 for a receiver that's legally bound to be tracked? fuck that.
>if you had the right toolswhen and where are you supposed to use the mill and the lathe in making a fun? what is there that a dremel and drill press can't do, as opposed to a mill/lathe? how are you supposed to thread the inner barrel either way?
I've skimmed through some DIY book from some fag named bill holmes. said you needed one of those large mill machines to do anything. if I went to some metalworks shop what are the odds I can trick them to do my work? assuming they're gun-illiterate and they work a plain sheet of metal.
>a dedicated press with all the right stuff specifically for bulletsidgi. it's a case crimper you can measure powder charge w/?
No.2722
>>2721<implying you can ship those through customsi mean, they're for sale IN europe. like they're european origin, with upper receiver intact which is why i couldn't buy it because in the US an AR18 upper with sear is classed as a machinegun
pretty sure you can still buy gun parts over there, shit like springs, flash hiders, buttstocks and other miscellanea. hell i actually bought early production CETME L furniture from a spanish militaria site, had them delivered to a budy i knew in spain, and had him ship them to me in the US from an FPO
>if all pieces are maliciously welded and drilled and all pressure components are unserviceable what good are they?thats basically the same as a parts kit. those come in TORCH CUT and TOTALLY FUCKED here btw, see pic. i really do think reactivating a euro demill would be easier– just because half the battle is knowing how the fucking thing went together **more accurately what the tolerances were, and if the receivers all together you basically just have remake the barrel and bolt– and since specs for cartridges and chambers are freely available, you already have a solid starting point.
i don't disagree about the faggot pussy yuro tracking shit, tho.
>when and where are you supposed to use the mill and the lathe in making a fun? what is there that a dremel and drill press can't do, as opposed to a mill/lathe? its a question of time, effort, skill. a master tool & die worker could make an entire gun using a hand file. have a block that you want a straight, 5X diameter deep hole in steel, accurate to within 5 thou? maybe a 5 minute operation on a machine tool
do it with a drill press, and you're talking hours. because you'll drill it- the machine isn't rigid so it at an angle, or because you break a drill bit and scrap the piece, or because even if you nail it dead on location wise– you're still going to have to drill it intentionally small, ream it, then maybe even hone it to the final ID you really want. then repeat that for every other features on that part and DONT fuck any of them up.
doable. but extremely tedious
>said you needed one of those large mill machines to do anythingnah, look up electrochemical machining for rifling. its dirty, a little rough, but definitely doable and functional.
>get them to do my work? assuming they're gun-illiterate and they work a plain sheet of metal.can be done. theres a lot of ordinary looking parts in a gun. but i'd save the option for when you hit a roadblock that is insurmountable
No.2725
wasn't joking about chimes budy
maf-arms . com
seen a few that did yuro. no way they'll go as full as this but could get the small hard to build parts
No.2810
>vary gud possibility that the next governor of my state will be an antigun ex-CIA glownigger womyn
>state house and senate are libshit controlled
VA went from gud for guns to CA tire in under a decade, truly wild. anyway guess i'm gonna have to figure out building the shit ITT without a garage, might have to use one of the rooms in my house and just add a vent fan or some shit
No.2811
fal update:
century arms is shit DONT buy anything of theirs unless you know what you’re getting into i ordered a new upper, hopefully that will solve everything. or the feeding issue at least p grateful I only paid nine hunnid for it, 3 mags, and 100 rounds. still think im ahead, just with a pain in the dick for now
No.2812
>>2811lel, those issues never resolved?
No.2813
zastava is generally a good brand right? i've been eyeing dracos lately but i don't wanna get a century arms one if the other guy is having this many issues with them
No.2814
>>2813you know century's reputation right?
No.2815
>>2814did you misunderstand my post? there's a zastava draco for sale and i'm really considering making a move on it and all i know is zastava isn't century
No.2818
>>2812No they didn’t, I took her over to the gun shop my friend knows people at and this is what happened:
>ok yeah we can check all that out for you, oh.. century arms huh? lol never mind unless you buy a new upper<buys new upperWhen it gets delivered I’ll take her back and let them do tha thang and go from there.
No.2820
>>2813The gun smith I was at said they don’t/won’t work on anything that is century because of how slap shod they are. I’ll never buy anything stamped century again, based on my experience so far.
No.2821
>century USED to import zastava guns
ohhhh ok that's where the confusion came from. century doesn't do that anymore, zastava is a different brand and the guns are made in serbia then imported through a branch they have in the usa or some shit
No.2824
>zastava and cugir both have decent reviews across the board
>micro draco has the rear sight on the dust cover
<fuck that that's stupid
>mini draco is slightly larger and has proper sights
>found a cougir mini draco on sale for $50 less than other places i was looking
ok so as long as century didn't manufacture the gun it should be good. fuck it i'm ordering it