>>1681>i think i actually did lose all my FAL updates in the wipe
Damn, well archive this thread before faggatron decideds to be a fuck wit again ;-;
ive got all the pics on my phone, i'll move them over to my laptop at some point
since i lost my recipe that i had results with last time, i had to do a little trial and error to rediscover the solution
after some fine tuning, i'll start recording qty of materials and do a bunch of tests to get it working well. notes below
started with glass of hydrogen peroxide, added sodium chloride until saturated. added more hydrogen peroxide until all sodium chloride was in solution. process repeated with soda ash.
no visible reaction was observed when placing test sample into solution. applying 8V resulted in bubbles forming at the anode and cathode. the test sample attached to the anode quickly developed pinnpoint corrosion, and the solution began to take on a rusty color
even after removal of the sample, the solution continued to generate bubbles and react. reaction eventually concluded.
removed sample had a heavy buildup of red and black oxide. wiping off excess and boiling the test piece resulted in mottled black oxide coat. pitting was visually apparent, but too small to be felt.
a second test piece was degreased and placed in solution. no visible reaction was observed upon its entry. applying 2V resulted in bubbles being generated at the anode and cathode. a thick, mostly even coat of black oxide with no visible red oxide was generated. upon wiping off excess and boiling, the final results were a durable but mottled and inconsistent black oxide coating.
quick correction, at 2V bubbles are not forming at the cathode.
doing tests with test piece 3. keeping amperage between .1 amp and .08. when it drops that low i take it out and card it.
i'll have to investigate alternative carding techniques (pressure washing? liquid abrasive etc?) because the entire point of doings this is that the internals aren't accesible for traditional carding
de-aerated some water and dosed it with sodium carbonate and sodium chloride
got black oxide development right off the bat. think my understanding of it is decent now
i think i have a rudimentary understanding of whats happening now.
next will brush up on chemistry… get the reactions written out proper like
determining the region black oxide formation can occur right now
i did a test with sodium carbonate saturated solution and worked my way up with salt until black oxide formation was observed, then kept working up until salt saturation was observed
next i'll start with a salt saturated solution and hopefully i'll manage to get a condition where the oxide gets formed, then it'll give me a range of electrolyte solution that i know 'something' happens in
after that it will be a systematic approach of filling in data points and noting the quality of the coatings
thanks the camera hides the flaws but it is pretty dark and durable
really very odd that theres nothing about doing this online. theres no way i could possibly be the first, right? just the first to document online?
just bizarre tho. hot and medium hot bluing are too difficult or toxic for people at home. rust bluing is extremely tedious, and cold bluing doesn't hold up well
you would have thought somebody would try to do this before
>>1701>you would have thought somebody would try to do this before
You're probably not the first. That'd be award worthy if so. I seem to recall reading some smithing tutorials on tor about 100 years ago. Couldn't tell you how accurate they were or any of that. You're doing the lords work.
gonna try and get the other bounding line tonight, I just finished working and I've got a couple hours before yeem get sleepy
after that I might try a test on a larger scale. Already made something to hold a trash bag, made out of chicken wire and wood plank stiffeners
see if this works on a 8ish gallon scale
as an FYI the numbers above are range of 1-1/4 tsp - 2-1/4 tsp sodium carbonate and 3/4 tsp - 3.5 tsp sodium chloride in 1/2 cup of water
ok made a batch right in the middle of the range (1.75 tsp sodium carbonate, 2.125 sodium chloride)
i'm going to slowly increase the current now and see how if theres a range that yields the best results
File: 1688442037576.jpg (345.01 KB, 1674x1631, 1674:1631, IMG_20230703_201606257~2.jpg)
That rubs right off :(
speculation, but i think the higher salt concentrations leave a more superficial coating. seemed like that during the oxide region testing too
very exiciting results from tonights experiment. will be posting the results shortly, i hope.
weve been in suspense
also i now think that the process is actually
>ferric carbonate (black layer)
>iron hydroxide (white precipitate)
are building up on the anode
when ferric carbonate is heated up it decomposes to rust and carbon dioxide
when it gets boiled its probably decomposing to rust, then immediately converting to black oxide
i'll have to take a torch to my test piece, see if heating it up turns it to rust or not. that will tell me if its iron carbonate or black oxide
thanks i did my torch test today
i dont have a clue about whats going on, but its a dark plum color now which is also kinda cool. doesn't seem like its any less durable, doenst seem to be rust
i also did a test where i tried removing loose material with my hose on a new test piece in the backyard but it wasn't very succesful
i might just get a Bransom 8210 for using in between plating sessions
bit the bullet and got a good deal on a used Branson 8210 ultrasonic cleaner
the manual instructions for testing if the transducer is functioning properly
supposedly the seller will repair or refund for equipment that isnt functioning right
they probly dont even know that the testing procedures exist, so i should have a good deal no matter what
is gunsmith cats any good or is it just more circlejerking reference books because actual toys are britain levels of banned?
and where do we stand on full wooden furniture on the FAL?
i enjoyed the anime. too short of a show to know how developed the characters are, but whoever wrote it had a good understanding of firearms and related american culture. better most wei
american writers, modern especially.
also what do you mean full wooden furniture on the FAL?
it has all wood
not the grip, often not the stock and sometimes not even the handguard
but on the other hand i think once I saw a wood carry handle, idk how i feel about that
Oh you just mean what my opinion is on it?
i thought you were asking about my FAL build
practically, my preference would be all polymer. superior to wood in almost every way imaginable.
aesthetically, i think the west german's G1 FAL is the most attractive, with a mix of polymer or wood grips, wood stock, and sheet metal forend.
all wood furniture usually only looks gud on ww2 era or earlier rifles imo
smgs assault rifles machine guns all that other extra fun shit should be either polymer or straight up metal unless youre going full artist autist and having everything engraved in which case wood can sometimes look rally gud
on something like a FAL but then you wont be doing anything but looking at it because at that point its just an art piece
part of the reason i hate classic aks is because the wood combined with the metal everything else looks fuckin stupid to me
t. timber hating sperg
ya but FAL and AK are both essentially WW2 designs
first prototype FAL was in '46, i think even earlier than the first prototype AK
i miss the look of oldworld designs tbh
everything these days is superior in performance and manufacturing technique.. but it so lifeless. extruded aluminum and modular is fucking boring
branson 8210 arrived today
didn't pass the graphite test, but did pass the foil test
will be doing a repeat of >>1952
but with ultrasonic instead of manual carding
ok some pics will be going up soon from todays experiments
steaming works great
and the ultrasonic cleaner takes off loose material almost instantly (10ish seconds)
i was hoping that doing more thorough cardings using the ultrasonic cleaner would result in not losing any coating during the boiling/steaming, but that hasn't been the case
since it doesn't seem to matter if i card in between electroplating sessions, im going to try only doing it after a boiling
plus i'll only do 1 electroplate session between boilings, since if its built up heavy 75% of it just seems to come off anyway
so the new method i'll be trying out is
fuck, brain rot.
>>1985>but its not the most attractive thing in the world
How does it function over all, and are you the kind of person who would prefer functionality over looks? If so shouldn't be a problem right? All in all looking p gud budy
>>1987>how does it function
i'll probly do a salt atmosphere test similiar to MIL-STD-883G. i bought a shitty ultrasonic humidifier for such a purpose
considering how porous it is, it will probly be decent>who would prefer functionality over looks
not really, but it would be nice to have the option
Will try to set up a steam conversion test later today on a bigger piece to confirm it will work in the 18
If it does, I'll be setting up for the real deal this weekend.
did not work.
might have to try the 'hanging pipe' method that old boomer on youtube did
Boomers be knowing some stuff.
ive not found that to particularly be the case